<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Five tips for taking tango pictures in dark environments</title>
	<atom:link href="http://blog.forret.com/2008/10/five-tips-for-taking-tango-pictures-in-dark-environments/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://blog.forret.com/2008/10/five-tips-for-taking-tango-pictures-in-dark-environments/</link>
	<description>and I mean it</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:45:03 +0100</lastBuildDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4</generator>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
		<item>
		<title>By: Wesley</title>
		<link>http://blog.forret.com/2008/10/five-tips-for-taking-tango-pictures-in-dark-environments/comment-page-1/#comment-321052</link>
		<dc:creator>Wesley</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 17 Nov 2008 21:23:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.forret.com/?p=1100#comment-321052</guid>
		<description>I&#039;ve had a lot of fun with Tango (been a dancer for 8 years) and I&#039;ve recently started to take more photos of tango.  Low light, high speed is the game and after 25+ years of photography I have to say that the new Nikon D3 IS the &quot;tango camera&quot; of choice.   To capture the intimacy of tango often the subject should not be aware that you are photographing them.  I have found the AFS Nikkor 300 mm f/2.8 VR lens mounted on a monopod (or hand held) to be great for capturing that closeness one feels while tango dancing.   My next favorite would be the Nikon 85mm f/1.4D AF Nikkor Lens shot wide open.   You can see what I mean by looking at my site, www.photobywesley.com.

I have nothing against Canon but it looks like in this last go around Nikon has Canon beat in the &quot;low light, high speed&quot; game (speaking of the ISO 25,000).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve had a lot of fun with Tango (been a dancer for 8 years) and I&#8217;ve recently started to take more photos of tango.  Low light, high speed is the game and after 25+ years of photography I have to say that the new Nikon D3 IS the &#8220;tango camera&#8221; of choice.   To capture the intimacy of tango often the subject should not be aware that you are photographing them.  I have found the AFS Nikkor 300 mm f/2.8 VR lens mounted on a monopod (or hand held) to be great for capturing that closeness one feels while tango dancing.   My next favorite would be the Nikon 85mm f/1.4D AF Nikkor Lens shot wide open.   You can see what I mean by looking at my site, <a href="http://www.photobywesley.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.photobywesley.com</a>.</p>
<p>I have nothing against Canon but it looks like in this last go around Nikon has Canon beat in the &#8220;low light, high speed&#8221; game (speaking of the ISO 25,000).</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Bart</title>
		<link>http://blog.forret.com/2008/10/five-tips-for-taking-tango-pictures-in-dark-environments/comment-page-1/#comment-316938</link>
		<dc:creator>Bart</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 31 Oct 2008 18:26:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.forret.com/?p=1100#comment-316938</guid>
		<description>I&#039;ve great results with a Canon 5D, ISO 32000, speed 1/60 and F 1.4 50mm lens. A full frame sensor helps a lot avoiding noise. I always shoot manual in low light situations because the light doesn&#039;t differ very much so you won&#039;t end up with overexposed pics. And if some are a little overexposed you can always recover the details in Lightroom if you shoot in RAW mode of course. Using RAW mode will open a new world, give it a try! And if you&#039;re planning buying a new cam but have a low budget than the Canon 5D is a good buy as it decreased in price since the Mark II has been announced.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve great results with a Canon 5D, ISO 32000, speed 1/60 and F 1.4 50mm lens. A full frame sensor helps a lot avoiding noise. I always shoot manual in low light situations because the light doesn&#8217;t differ very much so you won&#8217;t end up with overexposed pics. And if some are a little overexposed you can always recover the details in Lightroom if you shoot in RAW mode of course. Using RAW mode will open a new world, give it a try! And if you&#8217;re planning buying a new cam but have a low budget than the Canon 5D is a good buy as it decreased in price since the Mark II has been announced.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Mike</title>
		<link>http://blog.forret.com/2008/10/five-tips-for-taking-tango-pictures-in-dark-environments/comment-page-1/#comment-316922</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 31 Oct 2008 16:44:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.forret.com/?p=1100#comment-316922</guid>
		<description>Underexposing is maybe not such a good idea in my opinion, it just adds to the noise. 
I&#039;ve been testing my 50D in low light environments for a couple of days now and it&#039;s great! I can easily go to 1200 ISO without noise (the 350 and 400 already start showing significant noise at 800), and it&#039;s not as expensive as buying the 5D and it also has the DIGIC IV processor. 
What I miss in this post is the use of spot metering. I use this often to meter for the subject that is lit and not do an average metering of the whole photo which leads to overexposed subjects and too long exposure.
I&#039;m game for shooting some Milonga when you do one next tme ;-)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Underexposing is maybe not such a good idea in my opinion, it just adds to the noise.<br />
I&#8217;ve been testing my 50D in low light environments for a couple of days now and it&#8217;s great! I can easily go to 1200 ISO without noise (the 350 and 400 already start showing significant noise at 800), and it&#8217;s not as expensive as buying the 5D and it also has the DIGIC IV processor.<br />
What I miss in this post is the use of spot metering. I use this often to meter for the subject that is lit and not do an average metering of the whole photo which leads to overexposed subjects and too long exposure.<br />
I&#8217;m game for shooting some Milonga when you do one next tme <img src='http://blog.forret.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif' alt=';-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Clopin</title>
		<link>http://blog.forret.com/2008/10/five-tips-for-taking-tango-pictures-in-dark-environments/comment-page-1/#comment-316858</link>
		<dc:creator>Clopin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 31 Oct 2008 10:49:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.forret.com/?p=1100#comment-316858</guid>
		<description>Thanks! Good tips for shooting indoor all together I think.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks! Good tips for shooting indoor all together I think.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

<!-- Dynamic Page Served (once) in 3.694 seconds -->
