In a sensible world, all ’small’ things would have a mini USB (5V) power connector, all ‘medium’ things would run on 12V DC with 1 (one) standard coax connector and the rest would be on 220V AC. Let’s see how far we are from that situation:

• A USB connection can power up to 500 mA (900 mA in USB 3.0 – wikipedia), although the iPhone  seems to draw up to 1A. So any device that required less than 5W or certainly less than 2.5W, can get all it needs from a USB connector. Why are there then so many GSM and Bluetooth device vendors that insist on using their own proprietary connectors? Samsung, SonyEriccson, LG … I’m looking at you! I remember having at one point 3 different Samsung phones in the house and they all used a different non-compatible power supply. Nokia at least tried to keep the same (coax-like) power connectors until they started making smartphones that needed more power, and they made adaptors with a smaller pin. But Nokia: if Apple can power their iPhones/iPods with USB, then you can do that too.
• Some devices need more power, so there should be standard for 12V too. You can run hard disks, routers, laptops and even desktop computers on only 12V! (”The Google plan calls for a shift from multivoltage power supplies to a single 12-volt standard” – NYTimes 2006). Unfortunately there is no such thing as “the 12V plug”. There are a number of similar but not compatible ‘coax’ plugs around. If there would be a standard for 12V DC devices: you could have a 12V circuit in your home, or at least next to your computer, so that you power all devices with 1 big, efficient transformer. Also, you would have a collection of 12V transformers lying around that you could interchange without thinking. Compare that to having to buy an extra Apple Magsafe adaptor at 90 euro (the Magsafe for Mac Mini: 16.5 V – 3.7 A = 60W!).
  
• If you need more than 60W, you can either take AC or think of some 24V standard.

I know the GSM industry is already talking about it (”The group agreed that by the 1st January 2012, the majority of all new mobile phone models available will support a universal charging connector” – GSMworld). Apparently they want to standardize on Micro-USB. It’s a pity I haven’t seen a lot of devices with Micro-USB yet. I hope we’ll have Mini-USB to Micro-USB dongles so that we can keep on using our ‘old’ power cables.

Micro /mini / USB-B / USB-A female / USB-A male

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No iPhone, thanks

This is not my first iPod, I think I’m at n° 5. And before you start telling me “the iPod Touch is an iPhone, that can’t be used for calling. Why not buy an iPhone?”. Well, I don’t need a new phone yet, I’m probably gonna buy an iPhone in a year or so, when the GSM providers have reasonable data transfer prices, and there’s the price too: the 8GB iPod is slightly over 200 euro. The iPhone is 525 euro.

Applications

But this baby is really neat. It does music, sure, and video, like the previous one. But it’s got Wifi, a big, smart touch-screen, games, applications, and … From day one I’m using Google Mail (via IMAP), the Weather application, Google Maps. Then I started looking through the free applications on the App Store. So what am I using now:

• Games: Dactyl, Cube Runner, BlueSkiesLite, Sudoku, TapTap
• Stuff: iDoodle2Lite, WhiteNoise, Remote
• Network: AirSharing, Speedtest, IM+, Palringo
• Social networking: Facebook, AroundShare, GooSync, ShoZu, reQall
• Info: BuienRadar

I’ve just started using reQall, a kind of task list + shopping list, which allows you to add via the iPod/iPhone, via the web and via a IM (Gtalk) account. This looks promising.

The games are not bad. Dactyl is strangely addictive, the movement sensors work really well with BlueSkiesLite, … I expect to see some killer iPod/iPhone games in the future.

The only thing I miss now is a good sync with my Google Calendar. iTunes can sync my iPod contacts with Google Mail, but not my calendar. GooSync is supposed to be able to do that, but I can’t get it to work. Of course Apple wants me to use (paid) MobileMe, but I want to see if I can find a free way first.

In any case, I discover a new use every day. It’s … exciting, actually.

Wifi

I had Wifi on my Nokia N91, but I haven’t seen it so well integrated as on this iPod. It saves connection credentials and connects to known networks without asking. Well, the fact that I find this remarkable says more about the user-unfriendliness of the (Nokia) Symbian OS than anything else. But the feeling that you have a small Internet-ready device, that allows you to check email and read web pages comfortably everywhere, is awesome.

User Interface

People who know me, know I’m not the biggest fan of Mac OSX. Don’t try to convince me it’s easy and intuitive, because for me it isn’t. But this iPod Touch is another story. This is the best user interface ever.

You switch it on and it’s there immediately (not when it has to boot, of course, but when it’s just inactive) The screen is sharp and large. Text is easy to read. Images look great. You intuitively tap on a web page when it’s too small, and it zooms in until the paragraph is as wide as your screen. And then you turn the device 90°, your application switches from portrait to landscape and browsing becomes even easier.

The multi-touch screen feels totally intuitive. You flip through your photos by sliding them left and right, you scroll down by just dragging, you zoom in and out with two fingers and it feels like it’s the way things should have been all along. I even catch myself trying the two-finger zoom-in on my TomTom GPS, where it -obviously- does NOT work.

I took the iPod, did not read any manual (duh!) and I figured everything out in, what, 30 seconds? It’s better than the TomTom, and that one was already very good.

Hardware top 3

Apple makes great hardware. The MacBook looks slick and classy, the MacPro looks strong and professional, and this iPod Touch is not only beautiful, it acts likes it’s an extension of your brain, through your fingers.

It just entered my personal top 3 of hardware devices that make my life better. It jumped over the TomTom GPS and sits next to my Canon 350D. If some more killer apps come out, it’s totally gonna take #1.

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The ReadyNAS is a 4-bay network-attached storage device with a nice set of features. Yes, it does storage, but it also has an FTP server, an iTunes streaming server and uPnP (Universal Plug-and-Play: works with Microsoft products like Windows XP and Xbox). I’ve been able to use one for over a month and in short: I’m probably going to buy one.

PRO:

• it’s big: 4 bays gives you a max size of 4TB. That should do for a while.
• it’s silent. It ran in my living room, and the noise was hardly noticeable.
• it’s fast (when connected to a 100Mbps client, I reached speeds between 7.3 MB/s and 8 MB/s – the theoretical max for 100Mbps is 12.5 MB/s)
• it’s robust: I experienced no downtime, but then again, 1 month is only a month.
• it’s full-featured: the streaming protocols and in the latest firmware, the BitTorrent client, make it very flexible.
• it’s scalable: the X-RAID technology lets you pop in new disks and scale automatically (without reformatting)

CON:

• price: it’s not the cheapest NAS on the market (e.g. LaCie has a comparbale device, but it does not support all the streaming/torrent protocols that ReadyNAS has)
• proprietary: I’m not sure how easy it is to recover data from an X-RAID formatted disk set. I don’t think you can mount them in a Linux system and recover the data.

I also received the latest Storage Central (successor of the SC101) to test, but I never opened the box. The trauma of the previous one was still too big.

In any case, it seems Netgear finally made a good choice by buying Infrant, with the ReadyNAS product line.

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First thing is to see how Pixmania handles the warranty. They are supposed to send me a replacement for the broken drive, but I haven’t heard back from their customer support yet.

And then I have to make a decision about an alternative for reliable storage. Do I go for something semi-pro like the Buffalo Terastation Live (2TB, Raid5 for +- $1000) or do I build my own storage server with an old PC, a hardware RAID card and something like FreeNAS or Ubuntu. Decisions, decisions …

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The only problem with the device is that within 6 months of buying it, the battery started running out very quickly. Actually, it is not always short of breath, but mostly. Sometimes when I turn off the ignition (which stops power to the GPS) it will die within seconds. Other times, it might keep on running for an hour. Feels like a bad contact inside but the standard engineering trick for this (”hit device hard with right hand”) doesn’t help.

According to TomTom support (but I don’t think that’s why my battery gave up):

Speaking of the battery, TomTom told me by phone today that I should navigate using the battery and not the in-car charger. The customer rep said that overcharging was an issue if I left it connected continually.
via reviews.cnet.com

When I check the boot screen (reset and keep pressing the power button while turning on, via) then my battery gives 4140 mV, which is a good enough score. So I don’t think buying a new battery would help (they sell for less than 20€ at e.g. www.mdsbatterie.com.fr). I guess I’ll just wait a bit and go for the TomTom One XL. Size matters.

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• First try: I order the keyboard, do the checkout procedure, pay with credit-card and get an immediate reaction: purchase OK, shipment will follow soon. Wow, that’s slick. Several days later, UPS passes by my front door while I’m not there, they say, the package is signed off by a certain “Korenberg” and I get an email: delivery OK. Slight alarm bell: I know no “Korenberg” living at my appartment. When I get home this is confirmed: no one in the building knows anyone by that name. Keyboard is in the twilight zone. I file complaint with Logitech, they propose refund, I accept, I’m still waiting for confirmation. But, I still need a BG keyboard.
• Second try: I order another keyboard and try to pay with my credit card. Twice I give my credit card details, press “Process” and get redirected to the same check-out page, without any notion of whether or not my order is accepted. I check the “order history”, see that my recent purchase is not there and decide to give up on credit cards.
• I select “bank payment” and finish checkout. They tell me what bank account I should pay on (one of Bibit), and with which message. I do the payment, see that the number message is not a structured number (”gestructureerde mededeling”) and put it in the normal message box. Since then, nothing. Has Bibit recognized the money as the payment for Logitech? No idea. Has Logitech started fulfillment? I guess not.
• I visit the Logitech web site again, checking out the Squeezebox, and decide to test the checkout system again. I put a Squeezebox in my shopping cart. When I go to the customer care, I fly from shop.logitech.com (where I am logged in) to logitech-nl-emea.custhelp.com (which looks the same, but where another login is necessary, because both accounts aren’t linked, apparently). There I get into an eternal redirection loop, with an infinite number of “&cl=BE,nl” adding themselves to the URL.
• I try to break out of that loop by going back to the shopping cart page. For some reason my shopping cart now contains 2 Squeezeboxes instead of one. That’s it , I’ve had it.

Bottom line: this online shop of theirs is as trustworthy as Lindsay Lohan saying she’s gonna stop drinking. I buy online a lot from shops like Amazon and Pixmania, so I think I’m qualified to say that their shopping application stinks. I’m gonna wait until next week for reply on the second purchase, if there’s none, I’m cancelling that order, and I’m never shopping with Logitech again.

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Little riddle: if you have two dice (so each has 6 sides), with 1 digit on each side and you want to be able to form all numbers between 1 and 31 (for the days of the month), what digits would be on each dice? E.g. if dice #1 has 0-1-2-3-4-5 and the second 4-5-6-7-8-9, it won’t work, because you cannot form the number ‘22′.

Try to guess and I’ll give the answer next week. There’s a little trick involved! I first tried to figure it out without looking at the dice, and I enjoyed the mind gymnastics.

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It was chosen by someone close to me for its neat black design, somewhat iPod-cool, let’s say. The design turned out to be the only thing it’s got going for it. The battery performance is lousy and almost every conversation of more than 5 minutes is broken of. She complained and got a replacement phone: exactly the same performance. A colleague of her also has that phone: the battery won’t even hold a full day.

The GSM forums talk about the same behaviour:

• gsmarena.com: “it freezes up all the time, especially when im texting”, “the screen goes blank.. the camera freezes… i cant hear people on the other end… and oh the battery sucks”, “the display blocks when I slide it open , the touch pad started to fail sometimes and it has a very low speaker, i can hardly hear what the people i speak to are saying.”
• yourmobilephonereviews.co.uk: “The battery life is appalling”, “Most of the time the buttons don’t work “, “the phone volume itself is quiet even on the full setting, battery life is rubbish”, “I am now on my 4th one they all have the same problem. It just decides when it wants to turn on or off. The screen freezes, & the vibrate mode gets stuck”

Why can’t there be a phone with great design and the performance and reliability of a Ericsson/Nokia phone? Why is there no designer on the level of Jonathan Ive working at Nokia? Maybe that is a good question for Bob Cringely.

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Let’s see what this would buy you in the (Belgian) Apple store:

Pimped-out MacBook Pro

2,4-GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
4 GB 667 DDR2 SDRAM
S-ATA disk 250 GB (4200 rpm)
17″ Glossy WUXGA (1920×1200)
NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GT, dual-link DVI, 256 MB GDDR3 SDRAM
SuperDrive 8x (DVD+R DL/DVD±RW/CD-RW)
Bluetooth 2.0
Apple Remote
AppleCare Protection plan: 3 years

Which would cost you around 3400 euro (excl taxes/transport).

Let’s now compare that to a fully expanded Dell Precision portable workstation from the Dell store:

Pimped-out Dell Precision M90

Intel® Core™2 Duo T7600 (2,33 GHz 4 MB L2-cache 667 MHz FSB)
4 GB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM
Windows® XP Professional, SP2 (NTFS)
3 jaar Business Support
3 jaar CompleteCare Accidental Damage Cover
17″ WUXGA (1920 x 1200) UltraSharp screen
NVIDIA® Quadro® FX 1500M, 256 MB RAM
100 GB harde schijf (7.200 rpm)
8x DVD+/-RW-station
Intel PRO/Wireless 3945 802.11a/g Mini-kaart (54 Mbps) Core2 Duo
Dell Wireless 350 Bluetooth

Which will set you back … 3280 euro. Or wait, try this:

Pimped-out Dell Inspiron XPS M1710

Intel® Core™2 Duo T7600 Processor (2,33 GHz, 667 MHz, 4 MB L2-cache)
Windows Vista™ Home Premium
Premium XPS-service, 3 y
17″ UltraSharp WUXGA display, 1920 x 1200
4GB 667 MHz Dual Channel DDR2 SDRAM
160 GB S-ATA disk (7.200 rpm)
8x DVD+/-RW
512 MB DDR3 nVidia® GeForce™ Go 7950 GTX
Dell™ Wireless 355 Bluetooth 2.0
Intel® Pro Wireless 3945 802.11a/b/g mini-PCI-kaart

At a staggering … 3280 euro, or just the same as the Precision.

I know, to some extent, it’s comparing Apples to oranges, but I’m just saying: for a high-end notebook, a MacBook Pro is not that excessively expensive.

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Computer/photography/electronics
My favourite is Pixmania: they have a big collection of all kinds of devices and good prices.

shop.cdfreaks.com sells blank DVD/CD and printer ink and also accepts Paypal.
Apart from that? Foto Konijnenberg: no. Thomann: no.

Books/CD/DVD
Amazon: no. Proxis: no. Azur: no. Bol.com: no.

Personally, I find this list quite short. Even if we would extend our choice to any shop that does not charge high shipping costs to Belgium, what are the options? The sold product should not be too obscure (no “shop with books on the noble art of patchwork”). Do you know any?

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• raw storage: 1TB or more (if used with RAID-0 striping or JBOD config)
• redundant storage: RAID-1: leaves 500GB, RAID-5: leaves 660GB to 800GB
• affordable: anything higher that €2000 (2$/GB) is not an option
• accessible via either Firewire/USB or Ethernet (Gigabit)
• accessible by Mac, PC and Linux
• preferably not rack-mounted (who has a 19″ rack at home)
• hot-swappable disks are a big advantage

What have you tried and what are you happy with?

Some possible theoretical options:

Direct attached drive

e.g. Lacie Biggest F800 1GB, 4-disk S-ATA: €1299

meets requirements? YES. Only Firewire + USB

Network attached storage

e.g. Maxtor Shared Storage II 1GB, 2-disk: €899

meets requirements? YES. Only Ethernet

Lacie Ethernet disk would not work: it’s rackmounted and has no RAID

Build your own server

e.g. Dell PowerEdge SC430 with 2 x SATA 500GB drives and Linux: around €1000

meets requirements? YES. Only Ethernet

For me, the only solution I have experienced to be 100% reliable is building a dedicated PC with a hardware RAID card. What is your experience?

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In my continuing quest for more and better storage, I have taken the following path:

• Maxtor 5000DV, 120GB USB/Firewire, bought in 2003. Was dependable for 3 years (warranty period: 2 years) but has crashed a couple of times since (with data loss)
• LaCie Porsche, 160GB USB, bought in 2004. Worked OK for 2 years (warranty period: 2 years) but has crashed a couple of times since (with data loss)
• Iomega Desktop hard drive, 250GB 100Mb Ethernet, bought in 2005. Hasn’t broken down yet, but makes way too much noise (loud ventilator, running continuously).
• Netgear SC-101, 2×300GB Ethernet, bought in 2006. Supports RAID-1 mirroring, which I needed after all my hard disk crashes. For my less-than-optimal experience, read on.

Netgear/Zetera

I bought the Netgear/Zetera device after positive reviews on sites like infoworld.com. The Zetera software converts network-attached drives into virtual SCSI drives that can be mirrored (RAID-1) or spanned (not striped). In theory, one could put, say, 4 devices in a network with 2 x 500GB each and have a 4TB spanned T: drive.

So, I buy it with 2 x 300GB drives, pop them into the toaster, start it up, and create 2 virtual drives: 1 mirrored 200GB drive “MIRROR” for my music (backup of my CDs and a lot of podcasts) and the rest into a 180GB spanned volume “MOVIES”. First surprise: the Zetera software requires a (Windows only) driver on each computer that will access the data. I run 2 Windows machines, so that’s not really an issue, but if you’re on MacOSX, you would need 1 Windows station to manage the Netgear data and expose as a regular SMB volume: meaning double network traffic for each write/read operation. This is what my Netgear GUI shows: 10 new IP addresses.

I then start copying my music and movies over to the new drive. Copying 200GB of data at 45GB/h max (or some 30GB/h realisticly): it took a while, but at least my data is safe. Or so I thought. Every time you start the GUI, a popup appears with “Do you want to look for upgrades?”. At some point I’m thinking, “Hey, why not” So I upgrade the drivers on my desktop, and my laptop. Bad idea. To my amazement, I only have one drive anymore: “MOVIES”. The MIRROR drive has disappeared. I rerun the utility to attach all drives: “No drives available to attach”. This is where I get worried.

<!– #izoyff3syba1m9tu5t42jndessb5qa0bl6k7y930z{width:320px;height:256px;border:none;margin:0px;} –>

Netgear SC101- drive lost
Video sent by pforret

On the former Netgear forum, this is a known error, which sometimes can be fixed by erasing something in the registry, re-attaching the drives, fixing the drive letter and a fair amount of praying. Why do I say “former Netgear forum”:

“As a result of the popularity”… Yeah, right.

To cite the Google cache before it disappears:

Just solved the problem of a lost drive after hybernate or reboot i.e. laptop (Win XP Home SP2) could not see a shared drive, but other PCs still could. And, I could not reattach (even after detaching) the lost drive using the SC utility.

These problems appear to be fully resolved by this sequence:
Step (1) – clean lost drive from the registry as follows (found by NetDr:)
“I believe the problem here stems from another entry in the registry that is showing the drive mounted already….
Registry Key: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\ZNS\Client
Click on each key below the Client Key and see if the drive that you are trying to mount already co-exist? If so, remove that key only and reboot then remount the drive of choice in the SCM Mananagement software. Example: If you are trying to mount a drive named SC101 and you know it’s not mounted already, yet you see a key in the registry path mentioned above then Windows thinks that you aleady mounted that drive and you must remove it to trick windows into believing that the drive is not mounted so that you can RE-MOUNT the drive again. ”

Step (2) – Apply static drive letter as follows: (found by pslizard)
1) Rightclick My Computer
2) Click Manage
3) Click Disk Management
4) Rightclick on san drive and click Change Driveletter and Paths..
etc.
Cheers, SCuser

I also find a similarly disappointed customer at techknowman.com:

4 hours and one new DHCP lease later…. I came across the “No drives available to attach” message when I found that my newly created SC101 partitions had magically “disappeared” from My Computer on all 3 of my PCs. The NSLU2 gave me the option to configure either a static or Dynamic IP address so why couldn’t the SC101?

Another 2 hours of head scratching and questioning my technical ability I was led to the drive letter issue in these forums. Reading post after post of SC101 owners losing way too much hair in their youth trying to get the SC101 to work got me a little concerned. Although I decided to persist and not be detered as I was going to make this solution work considering that I had a lot of hair to lose.

Netgear tech support

So I decided to register the product on the Netgear support site and call for some technical support. When advised to use the command-line tool “ut” to check the storage device, I get:
===============================================================================
VERSION : 4.19.0 ROOT IP ADDR : 192.168.1.100
TOTAL(MB): 286184 # PARTITIONS : 2
FREE (MB): 78
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PARTITION LABEL IP ADDR SIZE(M)
15BC34B2-E41D-11DA-88C9-0001804AA8BF MIRROR 192.168.1.102 204800
8622F1B4-E41D-11DA-88C9-0001804AA8BF MOVIES 192.168.1.103 81306
===============================================================================
VERSION : 4.19.0 ROOT IP ADDR : 192.168.1.101
TOTAL(MB): 286184 # PARTITIONS : 2
FREE (MB): 78
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PARTITION LABEL IP ADDR SIZE(M)
15BC34B2-E41D-11DA-88C9-0001804AA8BF.m1 MIRROR 192.168.1.104 204800
8622F1B4-E41D-11DA-88C9-0001804AA8BF.s1 MOVIES 192.168.1.105 81306
===============================================================================
2 MicroSan found within subnet 192.168.1.255
So the partition “MIRROR” is still there, I just can’t get at it. Some consolation. Last thing I heard from Netgear (B.P. Moelker – NETGEAR Support Nederland) was June 29th. If this doesn’t get solved fast enough, I might become a very vocal unhappy customer!

UPDATE: my problem was solved as follows:
I got a reply from Tech Suppport with following suggestions:
1) try removing 1 of the 2 disks, and mount the remaining half of the mirror as a drive
=> that didn’t work, couldn’t mount that mirror half2) try to change the attributes for the mirrored partitions to “02 00 02″ for middle part and “0A” for the last but one byte.
(see kbserver.netgear.com/kb_web_files/n101605.asp )
=> that worked! I changed
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 00 01 00 00 00 08 1D to: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 00 02 00 00 00 0A 1D and
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 00 02 00 00 00 09 06 to: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 00 02 00 00 00 0A 06.I could mount the mirrored partition, I copied all data from it, I removed the 2 x 100GB mirror partition and created a spanned 200GB partition. No need for the false security feeling of a mirror when you’re not sure it’s gonna be there tomorrow.

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